Pula – City of History and Culture

The Art Press Caravan set off for Pula at the invitation of the jubilee twentieth festival of books and authors, the Sa(N)jam Book Fair in Istria, which was held from 4 to 14 December. Upon arrival in Pula, the caravan’s crew attended the fair programme “Coffee with the Patron.”

The President of the Republic of Croatia is the patron of this event, and so he patiently answered the questions of Serbian journalists as well. Josipović on that occasion noted that he bought the most books in his life in Belgrade in the eighties of the last century, during his military service. He revealed to us that his favourite Serbian writer is Danilo Kiš. Borislav Pekić’s novel Rabies held his attention so much that he read it in a single night. This exceptionally lengthy book was so tense and exciting to him that he could not part from it. He read it in one breath, without a pause. Among other books he loves, the Croatian president stated that he gladly returns to the Memoirs of Hadrian and The Garden of Epicurus. Speaking of music, he highlighted his collaboration with the Serbian composer Ivana Stefanović, with whom, in the small hall of the philharmonic, he held one of the first joint, post-war concerts. This is proof that, regardless of all existing barriers, one can collaborate, and that culture acts better on people and their mutual relations than some other things.

It is no coincidence that the press caravan, in its cultural mission, found itself precisely in Pula, which has the ambition to apply to be the European Capital of Culture in 2020. In May of this year we visited Pécs, the European Capital of Culture for 2010. In Pula one writes and speaks in two languages. The second language is Italian, which gives this city a special charm and certain lovely tones and colours that can be glimpsed on a subtle level. Walking through the city, with the naked eye you can clearly see traces of the Roman era and the former presence of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. It was the monarchy that set tourism in Pula in motion, to which the hotel “Riviera” bears witness. The first hotel built from that time, which was reserved for the elite of the day, made up of Austro-Hungarian princes, princesses and admirals, given that Pula was their main naval port, strategically very important. So it is no wonder that investment was made in Pula. In the centre of Pula there are tunnels that were built so that the population could hide in case of bombing. Nowadays, mushrooms are grown in them. The resourceful people of Pula recognised the ideal conditions through the suitable temperature and the required humidity, joining the practical and the creative.

The Pula Arena is the most visible structure that bears witness to the strong presence of the former Roman empire. Upon entering the Arena, we could energetically feel the vibrations of ancient Pula and the roar of the audience. As if with a time machine we had entered the first century after Christ. At the moment we went down into the catacombs of the ancient arena, we could not but rub our eyes. For a moment we could not tell dream from waking, because we ran into a group of gladiators preparing for battle. Drawing near these warriors, they explained to us that they are from our time. They are not visitors from the ancient past, but the founders of the association “Spectacula Gladiatoria of Pula.” Athletes and fighters who perform authentic reconstructions of battles from the first century of the new era. There is also a reconstruction of Roman chariots drawn by animals. Their performances in the arena are, in the summer period, more than attractive and well attended. The Pula Arena then completely revives the Roman era of the expansion of gladiatorial battles. Viewed from today’s perspective, the atmosphere is like at a football match in a fully packed stadium.

Pula is known as the largest site of amphorae. Two thousand amphorae were found a few years ago. There are special amphorae that the resourceful people of Pula use for fish sauce. They are located in the Roman oil press. So many found amphorae can be explained by the knowledge that trade in the time of the Romans took place for the most part by sea route.

The Art Press Caravan continued through the walk of history, strolling past the Pula gates, which symbolise the ancient era of Pula. Defying the modern age, they give their visible stamp to the ancient place, and yet somehow wondrously fit into today’s appearance of the city. One cannot do without them. The first gate we caught sight of is the Head of Hercules, a gate built one century before Christ. They call it the Gate of Hercules. Closer to the sea is a twin gate. The town gates of Pula are adorned by the Golden Gate, which is also the triumphal arch of the Sergii. The ancient family of the Sergii, who erected the most beautiful Pula gate. Carried by the traces of antiquity, we came to the town square, the Forum. We recognise that a location in the city is a forum by the fact that three temples in the immediate vicinity adorned every main ancient square. In Pula, fortunately, one has been retained, but a priceless one. It is the Temple of Augustus, built two thousand years ago. As a witness to six centuries of Roman presence in Pula, this ancient temple today represents a cultural and historical treasure. Forums were always near the sea because of trade and selling. On them everything took place, from the passing of new decisions and laws to the famous orations for which the town tribunes were responsible.

The crew of the press caravan set off to the late-antique and early-Christian site of Nesactium. Twelve centuries before Christ, these regions of Istria were inhabited by the Histri. Nesactium was the core of the Histri tribe. After this tribe Istria got its name. They were excellent shipbuilders and skilled pirates. At that time piracy was a kind of occupation, and was not punishable. The goat was their trademark, and it is very interesting that the goat as a symbol of Istria has withstood the tooth of time. Namely, the goat has survived to this very day on the Istrian coat of arms. The king of the Histri was King Epulon, who fiercely opposed the Roman conquerors. The Histri were regarded as brave and fanatical warriors to such a degree that they decided not to fall alive into the hands of the Romans. When they judged that the Roman troops were advancing unstoppably, they, by the order of King Epulon, killed their families and took their own lives. The mention of Epulon, even in present times, represents the strength of resistance.

From gastronomic pleasures to the realm of olive groves

After touring the ancient Histrian site, we rested in the restaurant Vela Nera, where we briefly gathered our impressions and enjoyed traditional Istrian specialities. Fish and wine gave us the impetus to go toward Vodnjan, where the highest-quality olive oil in the region is produced. The medieval place is located some ten kilometres from Pula, and the view of the vast, boundless olive groves and the Brijuni archipelago takes your breath away. Vodnjan is not only a realm of olive groves, but was once an urban centre and a known meeting place of counts, artists and officers. This can be seen by the buildings in Vodnjan, which belong to various historical periods and artistic movements. From Gothic and Renaissance to Baroque.

The hosts prepared one more surprise for us at the end. Carried by the sound of the sea waves and the scent of the winter sea, we sailed to sunny Rovinj. From there, as we listen to the captain telling the legend of St. Euphemia, the patron saint of the town of Rovinj, the wind and the sea are already better felt. In such a lovely mood, the Art Press Caravan entered the very heart of Rovinj and anchored in the tavern Kantinon. The tavern is a place in which one can experience a part of the local colour. Kantinon is the keeper of the traditional recipes by which the ancestors of today’s people of Rovinj prepared food. The top chefs of the Kantinon tavern prepared for us a gastronomic pleasure to be remembered. Specialities connected with the fishing tradition dominated, and at the same time the best state oenologist revealed to us the secrets of the eternity and unrepeatable taste of Istrian wines.

The members of the travelling caravan continued getting to know Rovinj, moving right along the sea coast. This led us to the discovery of something beautiful. In the middle of nature, near the sea, the hotel “Lone” flashed. At first, from afar, it looks like a huge luxury cruise ship anchored in the harbour. When we approached it closely, we realised that it is the most modern hotel, leaning on the sea and nature. At every step inside the hotel one sees the emphasis on the art of design. “Lone” is a fusion of beauty and style. The design of the hotel is unique, exuding harmony and elegance. An ambience of urban refinement is felt. The Art Press Caravan seasoned the tour of the hotel with a half-hour stay in the presidential suite of the hotel “Lone.” Symbolism would have it that, upon arrival in Pula, we were having coffee with the Croatian president Josipović, and that from Rovinj we left from the said suite for presidents. Rovinj deserves a travelogue dedicated to it alone. It is the end of this cultural adventure and the beginning of a new journey that awaits our caravan.